Author: VetBox

Puppies: Neutering

There are fewer things that bring more smiles to the vet clinic than an owner bringing in their new wiggly, happy puppy. It’s an exciting time for families to be adding a new addition, but it can also be overwhelming too! We wish we had an hour to sit down with every family that comes in to go over some truly important puppy topics, but unfortunately that reality is not often possible. Because of this having resources for owners to read/keep has become a must. We’ve included top tips and considerations on puppy neutering here for new puppy owners!

There has been a lot of discussion about when you/should you have your pet neutered. The general consensus among the vet community is that neutering your pet is strongly encouraged for several reasons. This should always be a conversation between you and your vet.

TERMS: NEUTERING refers to the removal of gonads/reproductive organs. CASTRATION is the term used for males and OVARIOHYSTERECTOMY or SPAY is the term for females.

Why should you have your puppy neutered?

For male dogs, much of the interest in castration is to decrease behaviours that are related to the hormone testosterone. This includes aggression, territorial tendencies, sexual tendencies, and lifting their leg to urinate/urine marking. While these behaviors can continue AFTER castration, they are typically less likely to occur. Secondly, there are medical concerns. Intact male dogs are at increased risk for testosterone induced testicular cancers, prostatic abscesses/inflammation/cysts, and other types of testicular tumours. There remains the risk of unplanned parenthood, which despite many well intentioned owners often happens by accident when the dog is unsupervised. I can promise you that intact male and female dogs rarely care about the opposing breed, size of the dog, or any family relation – given the opportunity, breeding can occur. 

There is a bit more “urgency” when it comes to spaying female dogs. While there is also a behavioural component, the risks here more so reflect medical concerns. Intact female dogs will have heat cycles consistently during their life and tend to behave more excitably during this time. This means that they will bleed 1-2 times annually as long as female hormones are still being created by the ovaries. Medically speaking, vets’ primary concerns are going to be increased risk of malignant mammary cancer and potential to develop a life threatening bacterial infection of the uterus called a pyometra. For every heat cycle a dog goes through, the risk of developing aggressive mammary cancer later in life increases. One heat cycle does not increase this risk significantly, but 2 or more heat cycles can result in an exponential rise in risk. Similarly, intact females will be at risk for developing a pyometra, or a bacterial infection within the uterus where it fills with pus. This is most common about 6-8 weeks after a cycle or pregnancy and can be a surgical emergency. Pyometra can be fatal if not addressed in a timely manner. 

When should you have your puppy neutered? 

In general vets tend to tell owners any time after 6 months in a healthy pup is appropriate. This allows them to get a little bigger and more mature prior to general anesthesia. For females, spaying around this time allows for the surgery to be done prior to the first heat cycle. This makes the surgery slightly less challenging as the uterus and ovaries will be smaller and have smaller blood vessels to address. As pets become larger and go through heat cycles, spaying becomes more involved. 

I would be missing some newer studies if I didn’t mention that there has been conversation about increased risks of other cancers if pets are neutered too EARLY. One of those commonly discussed is osteosarcoma (bone cancer) in larger breed dogs such as labradors and shepherds. Similarly, there has been conversation about effects on growth and bone/joint formation in large breed dogs neutered early on in life. While these definitely have merit, the challenge becomes finding a balance in minimising risk overall. Many veterinarians are waiting longer prior to neutering large breed dogs for this reason. In many cases, vets and owners are waiting until closer to 12-18 months of age prior to neutering to facilitate growth. 

What’s the difference between a keyhole spay and a regular spay?

A keyhole spay (laparoscopic spay) is a newer way to remove the female reproductive organs and involves using laparoscopic equipment. This means that rather than making a larger incision into the abdomen to gain access, a few small holes are made for the camera/scope and the surgical equipment. This is more costly than a normal spay due to the expertise and equipment required, but also is associated with less tissue trauma and quicker recovery.  That being said, conventional spays are still a good standard of care and are completed often in general practice. Laparoscopy can also be used for cryptorchid castrations (when the testicles have not normally descended into the scrotum from the abdomen). 

Puppy neutering is a way for pet owners to embrace preventative health care, in addition to helping control the pet population. Chat with a vet about when is best for your pup!

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Kittens: Neutering

A new kitten is one of the cutest and most unpredictable additions to a household. It’s an exciting time for families to be bringing in a furry member, but it can be overwhelming too! We wish we had an hour to sit down with every family that comes in to go over some truly important kitten topics, but unfortunately that reality is not often possible. Because of this, having resources for owners to read/keep has become a must. We’ve included top tips and considerations for neutering here for new kitten owners.

TERMS: Neutering refers to the removal of gonads/reproductive organs. Castration is the term used for males and ovariohysterectomy or spay is the term for females.

There has been much discussion about when you/should you have your pet neutered. The consensus among the vet community is neutering your pet is strongly encouraged for several reasons, but this should always be a conversation between you and your vet.

Why should you have your kitten neutered?

For male cats, much interest in castration is to decrease behaviors related to the hormone testosterone. Dogs typically tend to show more of these, but for cats it primarily involves urine marking and fighting with other neighborhood cats. There are also medical concerns including increased risk of cancer. Cats out fighting run an increased risk of contracting infectious diseases that impact the immune system such as FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus) or FeLV (feline leukemia virus). 

There is a bit more “urgency” when it comes to spaying female cats. While there is also a behavioral component, the risks more so reflect medical concerns. Intact female cats will have heat cycles consistently during their life and tend to behave more excitably during this time, including increased vocalisation. They will cycle several times each year as long as female hormones are still being created by the ovaries. Medically speaking, vets’ concerns are going to be increased risk of malignant mammary cancer and potential to develop a life threatening bacterial infection of the uterus called a pyometra. For every heat cycle a cat goes through, the risk of developing aggressive mammary cancer later in life increases. One heat cycle does not increase this risk significantly, but 2 or more can result in an exponential rise in risk. Intact females will be at risk for developing a pyometra, or a bacterial infection within the uterus where it fills with pus. This is most common about 6-8 weeks after a cycle or pregnancy and can be a surgical emergency. Pyometra can be fatal if not addressed in a timely manner. 

Another issue is that because cats often spend time unsupervised outdoors, neutering in general is an important part of population control. Despite many well intentioned owners this often happens by accident when a cat is outdoors unsupervised. I can promise you that intact male and female cats rarely care about the opposing breed or any family relation – given the opportunity, breeding will occur.

When should you have your kitten neutered? 

In general vets tend to tell owners any time after 5-6 months in a healthy kitten is appropriate. This allows them to get a little bigger and more mature prior to general anesthesia. For females, spaying around this time allows for the surgery to be done prior to the first heat cycle. This makes the surgery slightly less challenging as the uterus and ovaries will be smaller and have smaller blood vessels to address. As pets become larger and go through heat cycles, spaying becomes more involved. Oftentimes, cats may be neutered prior to this age (such as those in rescue or adoption centers) because the organization wants them to be adoptable sooner and ready to go home with their forever family. 

What’s the difference between a keyhole spay, a flank spay, and a regular spay?

A keyhole spay (laparoscopic spay) is a newer way to remove the female reproductive organs and involves using laparoscopic equipment. This means that rather than making a larger incision into the abdomen to gain access, a few small holes are made for the camera/scope and the surgical equipment. This is more costly than a normal spay due to the expertise and equipment required, but also is associated with less tissue trauma and quicker recovery.  That being said, conventional spays/flank spays are still a good standard of care and are completed often in general practice. 

Laparoscopy can also be used for cryptorchid castrations (when the testicles have not normally descended into the scrotum from the abdomen). 

Neutering your pet is a way for pet owners to embrace preventative health care, in addition to helping control the pet population. Chat with a vet about when is best for your kitten!

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

How to make vet trips less stressful:

We know that not all pets love hopping in the car and realising they’re headed for the vet. This especially rings true for cats. That being said, is there anything you can do to make these trips a little less stressful for everyone involved? Yes! Today we’ll cover a few trips to make your vet visits their best. 

Take a breath and relax.

If you’re anxious, it’s likely your pet will be anxious too. Animals are excellent at picking up on our emotions and behaviors. If you are calm, on time, and prepared for the visit it can make a huge difference in your pet’s anxiety levels. 

Bring your pet HUNGRY!

Our pets love treats, so bring your pet to the vet hungry! Not feeding your pet prior to a vet visit allows for rewarding pets with treats as they are more likely to show interest. This helps create a more positive environment for your pet, and also allows for successful recognition of desired behaviours.

BONUS – many blood tests at the vet are better done fasted (on an empty stomach). Not feeding your pet within 6-12 hours of your visit may also help your vet if they need to do these tests. We know this can’t always be planned for as some problems are booked for an appointment the same day. However, when given the chance, an empty stomach can be helpful for many reasons.

Get your pet used to car trips.

If the only time your pet gets in the car is to go to the vet, no doubt they’ll be less than thrilled to hop in. Get your pet used to riding in the car over time. This will help ease anxiety and also break any direct correlation in their mind between the car and the vet! This is just as true for cats as it is for dogs. Short, frequent trips to places they enjoy, like the park, can help them learn the car is not so scary.

Get your pet used to handling. 

If you have the opportunity to get your pet used to handling, the earlier you start the better. It makes vets jobs so much easier to examine your pet if the pet is used to having their bodies touched. This means regularly touching your pets feet, tummy, head, ears, etc. This is also true when it comes to looking in your pets mouth. Get them used to lifting up their lips to look at their teeth.      

Their crate should be a safe place. 

Similarly to the car, if the only time your pet goes into a crate/carrier is to go to the vet, of course it can become a nightmare getting them into it! We strongly encourage getting your pet used to their crate/carrier as early as possible. If you don’t have a place to leave the carrier out all the time, we suggest leaving it out for a week or so before the appointment in a place where your pet can go in and out as they please. Make the crate a place of comfort! Putting their favourite blankets, toys, or treats in the crate helps make it safe and desirable. It also makes it more likely they will not fight against you to go in the crate when the time comes to go to the vet. 

Keep things familiar.

Take things that smell or remind your pet of home with you to the vet. This includes blankets, toys, and treats. It helps retain some form of routine for them, as we know our pets are absolutely creatures of habit. 

Wait in the car. 

If you know your pet is anxious, ask your vet if you can wait in the car or an area outside rather than in a potentially noisy waiting area. This is extremely important for nervous creatures, particularly cats. The longer they sit in a scary environment PRIOR to their appointment, the harder the actual exam/treatments will be for them. Even if your pet is NOT normally anxious, a busy waiting room with other animals can be stressful and overwhelming for even the best behaved pets. 

Don’t be afraid of supplements, and in some cases – prescription medications. 

Consider using nutraceuticals/supplements that help with anxiety for your trip to the vet. We love the pheromone spray Feliway for cats. Spraying their crate prior to leaving, as well as a towel or blanket to put OVER their carrier can help. Decreasing visual stimulation for cats can significantly decrease anxiety. Additionally, some very nervous pets can benefit substantially from prescription medications from your vet for anxiety. This may be something they take regularly if anxiety is an issue at home, but there are also safe and successful options that can be given just prior to trips to the vet to take the edge off. Ask your vet if they think this option would be right for your pet!

Reward, reward, reward.

Animals respond and learn best when we reward a positive behaviour with a positive reward. This means that when our pets do a behaviour we desire at the vet, rewarding them is all the more important to encourage these repeat behaviours in the future. 

Go to the vet occasionally even when your pet doesn’t have an appointment scheduled.

This can be challenging for cats because they are so easily stressed, but for dogs there is more of a unique opportunity to visit your vets. Even if it’s solely to get a treat and some loving attention from the staff! This helps your dog associate the vet with more positive experiences, not just going for vaccinations or when they are sick. 

Your pet relies on both you and your vet team to provide the support and training for their vet trips! Going to the vet is an important and inevitable part of being a pet owner, so let’s make the trips easier for you, your vet team, and most of all our beloved pets.

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Want to get your pet’s parasite prevention sorted today? Click here to get started.

Puppies – Parasite Prevention:

There are fewer things that bring more smiles to the vet clinic than an owner bringing in their new wiggly, happy puppy. It’s an exciting time for families to be adding a new puppy into the mix, but it can also be overwhelming too! We wish we had an hour to sit down with every family that comes in to go over some truly important puppy topics, but unfortunately that reality is not often possible. Because of this, having resources for owners to read, keep and refer back to has become a must for us. We’ve decided to include our top tips and considerations for puppy parasites and prevention for new puppy owners, to help you adapt to owning a new puppy.

Puppies are extremely susceptible to parasitic infections:

While parasite prevention is important in pets of all ages, puppies are particularly susceptible to contracting parasites. They can be infected in the uterus directly from their mother with parasites such as roundworms or via their milk when feeding but they also spend lots of time accidentally getting faecal material from other animals in their mouths. This might be in their pen, at the park, at puppy class, among other places. A large proportion of puppies (even from the best circumstances) have roundworms at birth and should be regularly wormed.

There is not one magical wormer that treats all intestinal parasites:

Check with a vet about which product is right for your puppy. Common wormers will typically cover roundworms and hookworms +/- tapeworms, but won’t cover other intestinal parasites such as coccidia or giardia. Having the vet check a faecal sample in your puppy is also smart to help identify any specific parasites present. This allows for targeted and appropriate worming to be done. Most products intended for regular use such as monthly or quarterly worming come as flavored chewable tablets, making it easier for you to administer and more enjoyable for your puppy to take.

External parasites like fleas don’t discriminate against puppies!

Picking an appropriate flea/tick preventative is also crucial for your pup. Fleas and ticks are not only irritating, but carry a large range of diseases that can affect you and your puppy. Young puppies can become so severely infested with fleas they can become anemic (low red blood cell count). Most flea treatments are safe for use over 8 weeks of age, but be sure to check the product label as there are variations. The majority of these preventatives are made to be given once per month. Again, we have to remember that not all products are created equal. This means that some products come as spot on/topical liquids, some can be oral flavored chewable tablets, and many of them differ in coverage.  Checking the product label will tell you which parasites are covered by the drug, and if you ever are unsure, asking your vet will help pick the best product for your pet.

Take home points for puppy parasites and prevention:

Regular parasite prevention is essential for a healthy puppy, and often requires a combination of two products to achieve the desired broad spectrum protection. Be sure you talk to a vet about what your puppy is at risk for to pick the best option for their lifestyle and surrounding risks.

To read more on parasite specifics, check out our blogs on worms, fleas, and ticks.

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

For more information about how we can help you keep your pet safe from parasites, fill out a free consultation here

Kittens – Parasite Prevention:

Kittens – Parasite Prevention

A new kitten is one of the best yet most unpredictable additions to a household. It’s an exciting time for families to be bringing in a new pet, but it can also be a lot to get used to. We often get many questions about parasite prevention, so we’ve put together this blog post for you to refer to as and when you need. We’ve included our top tips and considerations for parasite prevention for new kitten owners to help lessen the stress of having a new pet.

Kittens are extremely susceptible to parasitic infections:

While parasite prevention is important in pets of all ages, kittens are particularly susceptible to contracting parasites. They can be infected in the uterus directly from their mother with parasites such as roundworms, and they also spend lots of time accidentally getting faecal material from other animals in their mouths. This might be in their pen, at the rescue, or outdoors, among other places.

A large proportion of kittens (even from the best circumstances) have roundworms at birth and should be regularly wormed.

There is not one magical wormer that treats all intestinal parasites:

Check with a vet about which product is right for your kitten. Common wormers will typically cover roundworms and hookworms +/- tapeworms, but won’t cover other intestinal parasites such as coccidia or giardia. Having the vet check a faecal sample in your kitten is also smart to help identify any specific parasites present. This allows targeted and appropriate worming to be done.

Most products intended for regular use such as monthly or quarterly worming come as flavored chewable tablets, making it easier for you to administer and more enjoyable for your kitten to take. Powdered formulations to mix in food and spot on wormers are also available.

External parasites like fleas don’t discriminate against kittens:

Picking an appropriate flea/tick preventative is also on the docket for your kitten. Fleas and ticks are not only irritating, but carry a large range of diseases that can affect you and your kitten. Young kittens can become so severely infested with fleas they can become anemic (low red blood cell count). Most flea treatments are safe for use over 8 weeks of age, but be sure to check the product label as there are variations. The majority of these preventatives are made to be given once per month.

Again, we have to remember that not all products are created equal.

This means that some products come as spot on/topical liquids, some can be oral flavored chewable tablets, and many of them differ in coverage.  Checking the product label will tell you which parasites are covered by the drug, and if you ever are unsure, asking your vet will help pick the best product for your pet.

Take home points for parasite prevention:

  • Regular parasite prevention is essential for a healthy kitten, and often requires a combination of two products to achieve the desired broad spectrum protection.
  • Be sure you talk to a vet about what your kitten is at risk for to pick the best option for their lifestyle and surrounding risks.
  • Indoor only cats are at risk for fewer types of parasites than indoor/outdoor cats, but should still be treated.

To read more on parasite specifics, check out our blogs on worms, fleas, and ticks.

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Ready to kickstart your pet’s parasite prevention journey? Get started here

The Lyme Disease Lowdown:

It gets easy to forget that some of the infectious diseases out there that can affect us, can also affect our pets. One that has significant potential for disease in both humans and our furry family members is lyme disease. Many people are aware of the acute and chronic illnesses associated with lyme disease in people, but lyme disease can cause these issues in pets too! Here’s a rundown on lyme disease, and why it’s so important to keep your pets safe from external parasites like ticks.

What is lyme disease?

Lyme disease is the term given to the illness caused by the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi. This bacteria is carried and transferred between infected animals and people by ticks, primarily of the species Ixodes. This bacteria can cause clinical disease in both people and our pets. Lyme disease can occasionally affect cats, but dogs tend to be more commonly affected.

What are the clinical signs of lyme disease?

Dogs may experience a host of signs including joint swelling/pain, lameness (limping), fever, decreased appetite, swollen lymph nodes and lethargy. In severe cases, the kidneys, nervous system, and heart may be affected. Similar signs can develop in humans. Some may be infected after a tick bite, but remain asymptomatic. Humans may also develop classic “bullseye” like red skin lesions, which we do not see in infected pets.

What type of environment do ticks like?

Ticks are a parasite that likes to be opportunistic. Unlike fleas, ticks aren’t major “jumpers”. Rather, ticks like to wait on vegetation and latch on to a warm body walking by. Often ticks like to make a home in tall grass, heavily wooded areas, thick brush and bushes. Ticks prefer a very moderate climate, and are most active in the spring/summer – though ticks have been found year round in the UK.

For up to date information on tick distribution, check out the following resources:

ESCCAP (European Scientific Council for Companion Animal Parasites) Ectoparasite Control:

UK Government Tick Surveillance Scheme:

MSD Animal Health Hub Tick Distribution Map:

Can my pet be tested for lyme disease?

There are antibody tests available for lyme disease from your vet. Typically antibodies will be detectable 4-6 weeks after tick exposure. This is fairly consistent for many tick borne diseases, including Babesiosis, Ehrlichia, and Anaplasma. This in conjunction with classic clinical signs help vets confirm a diagnosis of lyme disease.

What is the treatment for infected pets?

In milder cases, treatment with antibiotics for a minimum of 4 weeks may be enough to treat lyme disease. In more advanced cases, hospitalization with treatments like intravenous fluid support and pain medications/anti-inflammatories are needed. These pets may experience chronic residual clinical signs like joint pain, and in rare cases lyme disease may be fatal.

How can I help prevent lyme disease in my pets?

The good news is that there are steps you can take to help prevent lyme disease from infecting your pet. Prevention, as we say, is the best medicine. There are currently many effective and safe parasite preventatives on the market that protect against ticks. These include both topical (spot on) formulations and oral flavored chewables, typically intended for monthly administration. Preventatives that cover ticks are paired with flea prevention, HOWEVER not all products that prevent fleas ALSO prevent ticks, so it’s essential to check the product label.

Most tick borne diseases take over 24 hours to transmit any diseases via a bite, so checking your pets (and yourself) for ticks after coming in from outdoors is a huge help! This means that any ticks can be promptly removed and decrease the likelihood of disease transmission. Checking once daily particularly in high risk areas/during peak season is a good habit to get into.

Quick note on tick removal:

There are “right” and “wrong” ways to remove a tick! You must grab all the way down where the head/mouth are attached to your pet and grip firmly to ensure removal of the entire tick. Using an object like tweezers or a forcep will provide a good grasp. Failure to remove this may allow more time for disease transmission, and more likely leave an opportunity for significant local irritation/infection.

There is a lyme disease vaccine available for dogs in high risk areas, and whether this is appropriate for your pup should always be discussed with a vet.

Final tips:

  • Keep your pet on regular monthly parasite prevention.
  • Know your area! Some places are more likely to see higher tick numbers.
  • Check your pet for ticks regularly.
  • Have questions? Check with a vet!

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Click here to start your VetBox journey and keep your pets safe from ticks.

Puppies And Vaccinations – The Basics

Puppies – Vaccinations

The Basics for Pet Owners

There are fewer things that bring more smiles to the vet clinic than an owner bringing in their new happy puppy (or puppies)! Adding a new pet to your family can be an exciting chapter, but there can also be a lot of questions too. We wish we could sit down with every family that comes in to go over some truly important puppy topics, but unfortunately that reality is not often possible. Because of this having resources for owners to refer back to is both important and helpful. We’ve included our top tips and considerations for vaccinations for new puppy owners in 2021.

Determining what vaccinations are appropriate for your puppy should absolutely be a conversation with the vet.

This will be based on a list of core vaccines (vaccinations recommended for all puppies) then potential additional vaccinations based on your puppies lifestyle.

When should puppies get vaccinations?

Vaccines are typically started between 6-8 weeks of age and initial boosters may be continued until around 12-16 weeks of age.

Whether boosters are required and the duration of protection varies with each type of vaccine.

  • Core vaccinations recommended for all dogs:
    • Distemper virus:
      • This deadly virus can affect the respiratory, neurologic, and gastrointestinal systems in dogs. It is spread quickly by respiratory secretions or bodily fluids dog to dog, and can also be spread by contaminated environments/equipment. Signs may include sneezing/coughing, ocular or nasal discharge, vomiting/diarrhea, and potentially neurologic changes such as seizures or muscle tremors. Infections with this virus can cause long term neurological effects in those that survive, but the disease is commonly fatal. Vaccinations for distemper are safe and effective.
    • Parvovirus:
      • Similar to distemper virus, parvo virus is also HIGHLY contagious and can be fatal. Parvo is spread in pet faeces, and can cause severe bloody vomiting and diarrhea, and can damage the pets immune system. It can also be spread by contaminated environment/equipment. Treatment is solely supportive care/hospitalization as there is no “cure” for parvo. Again, vaccinations for parvo are safe and effective and should also be given to all dogs.
    • Adenovirus (canine infectious hepatitis):
      • This virus is less commonly seen than parvo and distemper, however is also easily spread by bodily fluid and can cause severe disease in the liver, lungs, eyes, etc. of dogs. Adenovirus is commonly found in a combination vaccination with parvovirus and distemper.
      • Note: Distemper virus, parvovirus, and adenovirus typically come in a three way combination vaccination.
        • Start at 6-8 weeks, boost 3-4 weeks later (must be older than 10 weeks at 2nd vaccination). At this point the vaccine is good for 1 year, then given every 3 years.
        • There are also some newer vaccinations on the market that require different booster schedules, so these times may vary.
    • Leptospirosis:
      • Leptospirosis is a bacteria spread in the urine of mammals and can cause organ failure, particularly to the kidneys and sometimes liver. This disease is also what we call zoonotic, meaning people can also be affected by the bacteria (Weil’s disease). If an animal’s urine that is infected with lepto comes into contact with the mucus membranes (eyes, nose, mouth, etc) of another animal, they are at risk of infection. Symptoms are often general such as lethargy, vomiting, and decreased appetite among others. Animals that spend time outdoors around other dogs or wildlife, as well as animals that spend time around water (particularly standing water like puddles and streams) should absolutely be vaccinated for leptospirosis. Cases are now even becoming more common just in common pet relief areas such as those in flat and rental properties, so this is becoming a consideration as well.
      • Typically started around 8 weeks of age, and can be started at the same time as with DHP. Requires two boosters initially given 3-4 weeks apart, then is given annually.
      • Note: Many companies make a vaccination that contains distemper, adenovirus, parvovirus AND leptospirosis.
  • Non-core vaccinations based on risk/lifestyle:
    • Rabies virus:
      • Rabies is not currently present in the UK (fortunately). That being said, pets travelling outside of the UK should absolutely be vaccinated for rabies as this virus has no cure, is harbored in many species, and is fatal to animals AND humans. Rabies is required for international travel, and research should be done prior to animal transport for each country’s regulations.
      • Can be given no earlier than 12 weeks. No initial boosters needed. First rabies is good for 1 year, then given every 3 years.
    • Kennel cough/canine infectious respiratory disease complex:
      • While kennel cough is typically associated with the respiratory bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica, in reality it is a combination of insults of both viral and bacterial origin. Often a virus causes irritation of the respiratory tract, and then “normal” bacteria present will overgrow and cause clinical signs. A hacking loud cough is the most common sign, and is often spread rapidly in close quarters via respiratory fluids hence the name “kennel cough”. That being said, kennel cough can be spread by any dog to dog contact or exchange of saliva, so pets that are often exposed to other dogs should be vaccinated.
      • Can be given as early as 6-8 weeks, no initial boosters needed. Given annually.

Key messages:

  • Your vet can help you determine which vaccinations are appropriate for your puppy! Our goals are to pick the most appropriate course based on current veterinary standards as well as your pets exposure/risk level.
  • Each vaccination works differently and may require different numbers of boosters.

For the most up to date vaccination guidelines, check out the following resources:

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

Start your VetBox journey today and get your pets fleas, ticks and worm treatments covered.

Kittens and vaccinations – The basics:

Kittens – Vaccinations

The Basics for Pet Owners

A new kitten is one of the most exciting yet unpredictable additions to a household. It can be an exciting time for families bringing a new kitten home, but it can also be overwhelming too! We wish we had an hour to sit down with every family that comes in to go over some truly important kitten topics, but unfortunately that reality is not often possible. Because of this, having resources for owners to read and keep on hand has become a must. We’ve included our top tips and considerations for vaccinations in this post for new kitten owners.

Determining what vaccinations are appropriate for your kitten should absolutely be a conversation with the vet.

This will be based on a list of core vaccines (vaccinations recommended for all kittens) then potential additional vaccinations based on your kitten’s lifestyle.

What is the difference between a high risk vs. low risk cat?

Risk level helps determine which vaccinations are appropriate or recommended for cats. WSAVA (World Small Animal Veterinary Association) designate some high risk cats as those with more potential exposure to infectious diseases. This includes cats that frequent catteries/boarding facilities, cats in multicat households, and cats that are indoor/outdoor (exposed to other cats and wildlife). Low risk cats are those who are indoor only and the sole pet in the house. This might also include households with multiple cats that are all indoor only.  
Vaccines are typically started between 6-8 weeks of age and initial boosters may be continued until around 12-16 weeks of age.

Whether boosters are required and the duration of protection varies with each type of vaccine.

  • Core vaccinations (recommended for all cats):
    • Feline panleukopenia (parvovirus):
      • While similar to parvo in dogs, feline panleukopenia is its own virus responsible for serious clinical disease in cats. Spread via bodily fluids, the virus can affect the intestinal tract and immune system. Signs can include respiratory problems, lethargy, diarrhea, and decreased appetite among others. It is highly contagious and may be fatal in severe cases.
    • Feline herpes virus (FHV-1):
      • FHV-1 is the agent also known as feline rhinotracheitis virus, a common cause of upper respiratory symptoms in cats. These may include conjunctivitis, corneal ulcers, sneezing, ocular discharge and nasal discharge. In severe cases, secondary bacterial infection may arise. Interestingly, the majority of cats have been exposed to FHV-1 and can remain positive throughout their lifetime. The virus is similar to herpes virus in other species, where once infected the virus remains and can become latent. This means it hides within the body and may sporadically cause clinical signs (respiratory), particularly during times of stress.
    • Feline calicivirus:
      • Calicivirus is an ugly virus also spread readily from cat to cat by bodily fluids. It is most commonly transmitted by respiratory secretions, particularly sneezing cats kept in small less ventilated areas. Because of this, kittens and cats in rescues, pet stores, catteries are at increased risk. Clinical signs often begin as respiratory in origin, but characteristic oral ulcerations may arise and cause severe pain. Signs may also develop in other body systems and the virus can be fatal.    
      • Note: Vaccinations for panleukopenia, herpes virus, and calicivirus are typically given together as a combination “upper respiratory” vaccination.
      • This combination vaccination is often started around 8 weeks of age, then boostered 3-4 weeks later. High risk cats will then need a booster annually, whereas low risk cats may only require a booster every 3 years.
  • Non-core vaccinations based on risk/lifestyle:
    • Rabies virus:
      • Rabies is not currently present in the UK (fortunately). That being said, pets travelling outside of the UK should absolutely be vaccinated for rabies as this virus has no cure, is harboured in many species, and is fatal to animals and humans. Rabies is required for international travel, and research should be done prior to animal transport for each country’s regulations.
      • Can be given no earlier than 12 weeks. No initial boosters needed. Next rabies is due 1 year later, then is given every 3 years.
    • Feline leukemia virus:
      • FeLV is a virus that affects the immune system and is often fatal. The virus makes cats susceptible to a host of other diseases including blood disorders and cancer. It is often transmitted by biting/fighting with another cat that is FeLV positive, but can be spread by most bodily fluids as well as in utero from mother to baby. Typically cats are tested for the disease prior to vaccination to ensure they are negative.
      • Requires two initial boosters given 3-4 weeks apart, then given annually to every 2 years. Can be started as early as 8 weeks of age.

Key messages:

  • Your vet can help you determine which vaccinations are appropriate for your kitten. Our goals are to pick the most appropriate course based on current veterinary standards as well as your pets exposure/risk level.
  • Each vaccination works differently and may require different numbers of boosters.

For the most up to date vaccination guidelines, check out the following resources:

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

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I wormed my pet, but I’m still seeing worms?

Reasons why you might see worms despite worming

You gave your pet their regular wormer, so everything is good right? You took your dog out and there it was. The worm. Your cat came to curl up next to you and there was a little grain of rice and it was moving. We get questions about sources of parasites in pets regularly. Occasionally we’ll get questions from pet owners who are using parasite prevention but unfortunately still find worms from their pet. Albeit less common, we encourage people to have faith and go over these reasons why you might be seeing breakthrough parasites in your pet.

They didn’t actually eat the wormer.

  • Some pet parents put their wormer tablet directly into their pet’s food and walk away to do other things, especially dog owners. This works great for good eaters like my goofy golden retrievers, but the pickier pets will sneak around that tablet like they’re Gordon Ramsey judging a food competition. You need to ensure your pet consumes the wormer. We know this may seem silly but pets can find all sorts of ways to get around eating pills, even when hidden in the best treats!

Your pet is exposed to heavier levels of parasites on a regular basis.

  • Pets that are often in the following scenarios have a much higher potential of parasite exposure/infection: dog parks, dog daycares, group play boarding facilities, training events, flat/rental properties with common pet relief areas, areas with heavy wildlife populations (many can carry parasites), neighborhoods with high numbers of outdoor cats, pets that like to hunt (cats for rodents/birds) etc. More animal exposure means more opportunities for potential infection.

You are not worming regularly.

  • Worming 1-2 times per year is not enough to keep parasites away. Many of our common parasites have life cycles that are completed in as little as a few weeks up to 2-3 months. Because of this, wormers are often recommended to be administered monthly to every 3 months to break the life cycle of the parasite if your pet has become infected. Checking with a vet to ensure you are using the right product for your pet and are treating frequently enough is a must!

The wormer you are using does not cover the type of parasite your pet contracted.

  • There is not ONE wormer that protects or treats ALL types of parasites. We wish there was, however this makes appropriate and targeted worming for your pets lifestyle all the more important. Most of the common wormers on the market will prevent the major culprits including roundworms and hookworms, however not all products will also cover additional parasites like tapeworm or lungworms. Again, being aware of WHAT your wormer covers is important and can be discussed with a vet. There are some parasites out there that are not covered by common wormers and require a more specific treatment from a vet. For this reason, faecal testing is essential so we know what parasite is actually present. Side note – don’t forget many intestinal parasites are microscopic, so regular worming along with faecal checks at the vet are recommended.
  • Common scenario: Pet owner giving cat a wormer that only treats roundworms and hookworms and cat becomes infected with tapeworms (contracted from eating a dead rodent), much to the owners dismay and frustration. The first assumption is the product does not work, when in reality the product is not a drug that treats tapeworms!

Your wormer works great, but your pet was infected in between doses.

  • It’s important to make a distinction between wormers vs. flea/tick preventatives. Wormers are not preventing EXPOSURE to the parasite, but rather stopping the life cycle/killing off the parasite upon administration. Wormers do not remain in the system persay between doses to prevent infection like flea and tick monthly preventatives do. The hope is that regular targeted worming stops development of specific parasites and is given at appropriate intervals so that these parasites do not have the opportunity to grow into adults then shed eggs to infect other pets. Rarely pets, particularly those with higher exposure risk, will manage to pass an adult in between doses which may indicate a need for a change in worming frequency. Also note, pets may pass dead worms as well.

These are important considerations we like to cover with pet owners when they ask questions about wormers, their efficacy, and how they work. The wormers used in the veterinary community are extremely safe and effective products. We would say by far the most common reasons for people to have issues is they don’t realize what their wormer actually protects against or are not giving it at appropriate intervals! That’s what vets are here for, to be the reliable source of this information and make guided recommendations for what is best for your pet based on their needs.

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM MRCVS

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The Top 5 Reasons You Are Still Seeing Fleas

Fleas, fleas, fleas and how to treat them

Treating monthly and still seeing fleas? This might be why…

You’ve been doing the right thing by treating your pet with a preventative treatment on the correct schedule but hang on, you’ve just seen a flea. How has this happened? At VetBox we get this question often and we know it can be frustrating. Rest assured you are doing the right thing by treating your pet, but here are our top 5 most common reasons you may still be finding fleas on your pet and in your home. 

  1. You need to treat all pets in the home.

To successfully get rid of a flea infestation, ALL pets in the home need to be treated, not just the pet who seems to be affected. Some people may see fleas on multiple pets, but more often there is one primary offender who seems to be the flea favourite. This is why it’s vital that all your pets are treated with an appropriate flea treatment each month. 

  1. You need to treat them for long enough. 

It’s not uncommon for pet parents to be concerned when fleas aren’t gone IMMEDIATELY. It’s completely understandable as fleas are 1) unappealing and 2) irritating to you and your pets. That being said, consistent treatment is typically needed for three consecutive months to have the best chance beating a flea infestation. This has to do with the flea life cycle itself. Fleas are incredibly  persistent. They are fantastic at laying eggs that turn into larvae that are especially hard to get rid of. These live in your carpet, bedding, furniture, etc. and hatch into adults in the weeks to come. One female flea can lay 2,000 eggs in her lifetime. In moderate climates (not too hot and not often below freezing), our pets need to be treated with a preventative monthly all year round to break the flea cycle and keep them away. 

  1. You need to use an effective product. 

Not all products are right for every pet. For starters, it’s important that we as vets remind owners to ensure the product they are planning to use is made for either a dog or a cat. There are many products made for dogs that are very toxic to cats, so ensure you have the right product for the right species. Do not split a dose between pets, this will not provide the right amount of treatment to do its job. Some pets may do very well with one type of flea treatment whereas others may need a different product. Not all flea treatments contain the same drug and not all pets respond to every drug the same. You may be one of the fortunate ones that can use an over-the-counter treatment successfully, however some pets need a slightly stronger prescription treatment from their veterinarian. Unfortunately in our veterinary experience we have not found “natural products” to yield much success.

Important note: When using topical or spot-on treatments, you should not bathe your pet or let them swim within 5-7 days of application. These treatments rely on a normal intact fatty acid layer in the skin to be absorbed and spread. Bathing or swimming can disrupt this layer, or even just wash the product off before it is absorbed!

  1. You might have missed a month….or two…..ok nine…

The majority of flea treatments are created to be administered once every 4 weeks. Missing the due date by a few days here or there is typically ok, however if you miss a treatment for your pet and get to weeks 6, 7, or 8 on from the last treatment your pet is no longer protected. One tip is putting a reminder on your phone each month to give flea/wormer treatments so you don’t forget. VetBox subscriptions go one better because you get that friendly reminder from the team each month when your box arrives. Plus treats…bonus!

  1. You need to appropriately treat YOUR HOME!

This may be one of the biggest issues that we when people are having trouble with fleas at home. Owners get halfway there by diligently treating their pets, but forget an equally important part – cleaning their home itself. As mentioned above, flea eggs are produced by the hundreds and are fabulous at shedding off your pet into the house. These will mature into larvae that hide and become dormant in places like bedding, carpet, and furniture. Eventually if not also battled, they will become adults in weeks/months ready to start the life cycle again. We strongly encourage vacuuming all surfaces, washing bedding/blankets both human and pet, in hot water, and considering a safe environmental spray for carpeted areas and upholstery that will inhibit flea eggs and larvae. Often one round of deep cleaning is enough, but repeating these steps may be needed. A quick note, these sprays are made for your home NOT your pet! Keeping pets confined to an area where you have not sprayed while treated areas dry for a few hours is typically recommended. Following manufacturer guidelines and vet guidance is always best. 

A few final tips…

Virbac Animal Health make an effective and safe spray for your home that is widely available including on Amazon, called Indorex Spray. This is a product we often recommend to pet owners as an option in severe home infestations. *Reminder: Please follow product recommendations for application in your home. This is not a pet product!*

No one likes fleas and we want them off your pets and out of your home. Once again the best bet for success is responsible and regular monthly preventative treatments to keep us all happy and flea free. 

Dr. Kirsten Ronngren, DVM – MRCVS

Vet at VetBox

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